What's your Shape?

For a Round Face

For a round facial shape the opportunities are endless. Hair may be worn on or off the face with countless variations in between. Try the classic inverted bob, severe angles and face framing. A fringe will dramatically change and create contour on any round surface. In coloring try deeper shadows around the temples and place lighter accents just behind them to create an elongated effect. Hair styles with fullness and height at the crown that are longer than chin length will make face shape appear longer. Off-center parts will soften, while center parts will make face appear rounder.

For a Rectangular or Oblong Face

The elongated face is one of the most rare shapes, though it is not completely uncommon. Long hair with layers is the perfect answer for this shape. A fringe or “bangs” will help to shrink and framing layers will provide the necessary linear lines. If shorter hair is craved, try a “pixie bob” with lots of face framing and softness along the neckline. As for coloring, the best option is to darken the top part in order to visually shorten the face. Then you should add highlights to the lateral areas, especially at the level of the cheekbones. This will visually extend the middle of the face and make the face more oval.

For a Triangular Face

Another name for this is a heart-shaped face. It is a short face, with a wide forehead and wide cheekbones, narrowed cheeks and narrow chin. For that type, the best variant is midi length, light, free locks, with some locks falling to the face. You want to emphasize a heavy bang that widens out the top narrow portion of you face, thus making the facial shape more rounded.

For a Square Face

The best option is hair with movement, with locks to soften the face angles. The hair should cover the frontal area, especially the lateral sides of the face, and to “mask” a part of the cheeks. In styling, try height at the crown to elongate your symmetrical shape. Short-to-medium length hair off-center parts, especially with wave or roundness around the face are best.

The Deal With Sulfates

Is lather what we’re really after for healthfully clean hair?

The lather is the result of surfactants, which are defined as substances which clean surfaces — in the case of hair, sebum (oil), hair product, dust and dirt which clings to the hair follicle.

The most common surfactant used in personal hygiene products is Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, called SLS for short. Other commonly used sulfates: Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Ammonium Sulfate. These are salt-based chemicals which produce the piles of detergent-bubbles associated with old-school shampoos.

Traditional shampoos break down your hair, causing it to become finer, thinner, duller, frizzier and weaker. The lathering property of traditional shampoos strips your hair of its sheen, lustre, moisture, shine and color, much like laundry detergents do with your clothes.

Apart from sulfates, simply washing your hair too often may contribute to short-lived color and hair dehydration.

There really isn’t a need to shampoo everyday. It’s far more important to condition on a regular basis. Hair that literally ‘squeaks’ after washing means that your hair is stripped of oil or sebum that is naturally found in your scalp and hair and promotes healthy hair growth.

People tend to overshampoo which is costly, and creates exaggerated oil production. By simply shampooing less often, your sebaceous glands will slow down and come into right balance. By shampooing every day or every other day, you’re telling your scalp that it needs to replenish the oils you’re washing away. Try just rinsing your hair and applying a bit of conditioner, comb through and rinse out on non-shampoo days.

So get real with your hair. If your scalp is over-oily — you may be shampooing too often. If your color fades in a week or two, you may be using a formula that’s too harsh—try switching to sulfate-free.

One Size Does Not Fit All

Do you know your hair type? Chances are that it falls into one of three categories: Thick, thin or curly. But did you know that there are ways to style your particular brand of hair that will bring out its most stunning qualities and put any problem areas to rest.

Thin Hair

TREATMENT
Support the look with a strong foundation. Only use conditioner on the ends. Use volumizing mousse or root sprays. Also consider coloring or highlighting your hair to add dimension.

CUT
Keep it shoulder length or shorter, long thin hair can look limp and lifeless. Avoid too many layers as well because it will make the perimeter of the hair look stringy. Graduation at the ends gives fine hair more body and movement. Shorter styles such as a pixie and an above the shoulder bob are flattering for thin hair.

COLOR
Hair color causes the hair strands to swell and creates volume. Darker shades will make hair look much thicker than lighter shades. If the desired look is on the lighter side, work a darker color through underneath to give the illusion of thickness. Pieces of color also work well, as they create more texture in the hair, making it look fuller. Never over lighten thin hair as this will give it a more “transparent” appearance. Try highlights and lowlights with colors slightly lighter and darker than your natural haircolor.

Thick Hair

TREATMENT
Use a deep conditioner weekly and try not to over wash thick hair because it might result in puffy frizzy hair. Always use a serum on towel dried hair after shampooing.

CUT
Layering removes bulk and well-executed texturizing creates separation. Avoid cutting thick hair too short, or the style will lose movement and appear very solid and dense. Layered cuts are awesome for thick hair. When it comes to the fringe, choose the style based on the shape of your face. Layered cuts help with shape and direction.

COLOR
Most colors work well on thick hair, especially rich, velvety brown shades. High shine gives thick hair a lustrous and healthy appearance. Be wary when working blonde shades through thick hair. Over-lightened hair can look dry, and can make thick hair look especially coarse and brittle. Using lightening products can also “swell” the hair shaft, making hair look even more bulky. When coloring thick hair use thinner highlights, otherwise the color can be lost in the mass of hair. Try applying subtle highlights and lowlights underneath layers — they will peek out from beneath a surface “veil” and give the appearance of dimension and movement.

Curly Hair

TREATMENT
Less is more — the less you manipulate curly hair the better it looks. Too much handling can lead to too much frizz. Curly hair loves moisture so after shampooing and conditioning, resist the urge to rinse out the conditioner until hair squeaks. Leave some conditioner in the hair and blot dry. Before drying, apply a leave-in conditioner or moisturizing styler. Divide hair into one-inch sections and lightly twist each section in the direction of the curl to encourage curl definition and use a diffuser or let hair air dry with minimal handling. For home maintenance, be sure to add moisture to the hair. You don’t need to shampoo every day. You can also apply conditioner alone.

No two heads of curly hair are the same. Stylists can-not do systematic cuts on curly hair. All curls are different and cutting in basic layers will result in a cut that is asymmetrical when dry. Be careful not to over-layer the hair in the crown or it will lose movement and disturb the curl pattern. Texturizing should also be done underneath rather than at the end of curl strands to keep natural curl pattern intact. Curls have a mind and bounce of their own.

COLOR
Thick pieces of color worked through curly hair will accentuate the curl. Choose a shade no lighter than three shades above the base color, so the contrast is not too great. High shine is very important as curly hair can look coarse and less brilliant than straighter styles. Red shades look particularly striking on curly hair. Super blonde shades accentuate the dry and coarse appearance of curly hair types. When coloring curly hair, avoid extremely light tones. The lighter the curly hair is, the frizzier it tends to appear. Rich, deep, darker tones help hair look shinier and make curls look well defined.

Brazilian Keratin Hair Treatments

Keratin hair treatments smooth hair and actually improve the health of the hair by creating a protective protein layer around the hair shaft to eliminate frizz and smooth the cuticle down for up to 3-6 months. Keratin treatments are NOT a permanent treatment such as the japanese straightening and relaxers which change the actual structure of the hair, resulting in an obvious difference between the new hair growth and the previously straightened hair. In many cases permanent straighteners also have a tendency to compromise the hair’s health.

Keratin treatments are smoothing treatment that reduces volume, eliminates frizz, adds shine, & cuts blow-drying time down significantly. Anyone who has frizzy, coarse, curly, and or damaged hair is a great candidate for this treatment. If your hair is wavy, your hair appear naturally straight and healthy. If your hair is very curly, it will minimize frizz while enhancing the appearance of the natural wave/curl. If you have straight, frizzy hair, this treatment will eliminate frizz and promote radiant shine.

Hair Tips

No matter what your hair goals, you want your hair to be at it’s best. Shiny, bouncy, healthy hair is a must for all lengths. But if you are trying to grow your hair out and prevent damage, you might need to try a few unconventional methods.

Take your vitamins!

Take a multivitamin that encompasses all of your body’s needs. Hair especially likes B complex, biotin, folic acid, pantothenic acid, iron, zinc, flax seed oil, black currant seed oil, kelp and silica. If you want to be extra sure your hair is getting what it wants, take an amino acids complex as well.

Your hair is a byproduct of your body’s functions. If your body is operating with the best nutrition, then it can produce a better product.

Scalp massage

Massaging your scalp for 5 minutes a day can make your hair stronger, thicker, and grow in faster. You can choose to do it dry, or use an oil or scalp treatment to assist you. You can even do it while you are shampooing. Massage stimulates your scalp’s blood supply. The blood brings nutrients to the follicles and that helps the follicles do their work. As an added benefit, scalp massage is a great stress reducer. Less stress=more beautiful hair.

Remember to use the pads of your fingers, never your nails. Spread your fingers apart and place them firmly on your head. Start at the base of your neck and work your way up to your front hairline. Move in little circles. You may feel tingly; that’s your improved circulation.

Don’t neglect your trims

Your ends are the oldest, driest and most damaged part of your hair. No matter how gentle you are to your hair, the ends split and move farther up the hair shaft. Split ends cause tangles, which leads to breakage and snapping. Getting trims will also keep the shape of your hair. Since hair grows unevenly, after a couple of months your style can go from chic to shaggy very quickly.

It’s better to get small trims every 2-3 months than have to get a huge chop to remove all the damage at once.

Handle with Care!

The number one obstacle to growing healthy long hair is damage – and most of it is self inflicted. Hair should always be handled gently – especially when wet. Detangle with your fingers, then a wide tooth comb. Avoid metal barrettes and rough elastics – plastic clips and hair sticks are just as versatile and much healthier. If you heat-style, try to reduce the heat, and use leave-in protectors before applying the heat.

Get the Right Help

To successfully grow and maintain long hair, you need a stylist who shares your goal. Many women have had unhappy encounters with a “scissor-happy” stylist who imposes her own will. Take the time and effort to find a stylist who respects your wishes and will work with you. Insist on a consultation before having any services performed – this is an excellent time to assess the stylist. Does he/ she listen to you? Have a plan to help you grow and maintain long hair? Does he/ she seem interested in your needs – or is he/ she patronizing, anxious to impose his vision?

When you feel comfortable to proceed with a trim, observe how he treats your hair. Look for gentleness and respect – not a hurried, rough approach.

Products Matter

Long hair has special needs – it’s older and more porous. Your shampoo should be gentle, but not overloaded with conditioners that prevent proper cleansing. Alternate conditioning with moisturizers and deep protein treatments.

Other Ideas

• Sleep on a satin pillowcase to prevent damage from tossing and turning.

• If your hair is damaged, use a protein treatment once a week.

• Switch to a boar bristle brush.

• If your hair is very dry, don’t shampoo every day.

• If you have fine, thin hair, stay away from volumizing and thickening shampoos. They dry out your hair.

Bring in the New Year with Gorgeous Hair

Healthy hair is key to beautiful hair and the key to healthy hair is maintenance.  Regular hair cuts every 3 to 4 months at least are a must, even if your growing your hair long. Without regular haircuts or trims hair will become dry, brittle and eventually split from the bottom up. The longer a good trim is put off the higher up the hair strand the split goes. There is no miracle treatment that will repair split ends or damaged hair. The purpose of hair treatments is to maintain the health of your hair so it never gets to that point. There are many different types of hair treatments such as hot oil treatment for generally healthy hair to replenish moisture and shine. Hair masques are for hair needing a bit more moisture along with reconstructing properties. Protein treatments are for hair that has been over processed. A simple strand test done will help tell which treatment is best to start with and often rotating between protein and moisture treatments is a nice balance for hair. Hair treatments on normal hair is best done monthly, for more dry/damaged hair it is best done on a weekly basis. While there are many types of hair treatments sold in beauty supply stores and retail stores there is no comparison to products sold only to liscenced professionals paired with a hair dryer or steamer to help open the hair shaft for better absorption of particular treatments.

As far as hair color goes, stripy all over highlights, flat brunettes, and dull reds are to be a thing of the past. If your someone who is new to hair color a few strategically placed foils will enhance your color and add dimension to your hair. Blonds are going full array, with subtle hints of icy cool and warm golden blonde tones blended seamlessly for an unparalleled blonde. Think rich velvety browns with a few carmel highlights just around the face for brunettes. Wether its deep or bright, reds need to be vivid!