The Deal With Sulfates

Is lather what we’re really after for healthfully clean hair?

The lather is the result of surfactants, which are defined as substances which clean surfaces — in the case of hair, sebum (oil), hair product, dust and dirt which clings to the hair follicle.

The most common surfactant used in personal hygiene products is Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, called SLS for short. Other commonly used sulfates: Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Ammonium Sulfate. These are salt-based chemicals which produce the piles of detergent-bubbles associated with old-school shampoos.

Traditional shampoos break down your hair, causing it to become finer, thinner, duller, frizzier and weaker. The lathering property of traditional shampoos strips your hair of its sheen, lustre, moisture, shine and color, much like laundry detergents do with your clothes.

Apart from sulfates, simply washing your hair too often may contribute to short-lived color and hair dehydration.

There really isn’t a need to shampoo everyday. It’s far more important to condition on a regular basis. Hair that literally ‘squeaks’ after washing means that your hair is stripped of oil or sebum that is naturally found in your scalp and hair and promotes healthy hair growth.

People tend to overshampoo which is costly, and creates exaggerated oil production. By simply shampooing less often, your sebaceous glands will slow down and come into right balance. By shampooing every day or every other day, you’re telling your scalp that it needs to replenish the oils you’re washing away. Try just rinsing your hair and applying a bit of conditioner, comb through and rinse out on non-shampoo days.

So get real with your hair. If your scalp is over-oily — you may be shampooing too often. If your color fades in a week or two, you may be using a formula that’s too harsh—try switching to sulfate-free.